CARBONE
Greenwich Village, New York
photo : Daniel Bellino Zwicke
Author: Daniel Bellino
Danny Bolognese Recipes
Author Daniel Bellino “Z”
aka DANNY BOLOGNESE
Making a Pot of His Famouse Bolognese
Author Daniel Bellino-Zwicke, a.k.a. Danny Bolognese has some wonderful best selling cookbooks no under his belt. Daniel has authored such Best Seeling Titles as; La TAVOLA, Sunday Sauce, The Feast of The 7 Fish – Italian Christmas, SEGRETO ITALIANO aka Secret Italian Recipes and GOT ANY KAHLUA? aka The BIG LEBOWSKI COOKBOOK ..
Daniel said he was torn giving up his famous Secret Bolognese Recipe, but finally relented. He said it was time to let the cat out of the bag, and get it out there for the whole world to see, what some like The Journal of Italian Food Wine & Travel called the Best Bolognese in America .. It was at Daniel’s restauratn Bar Cichetti (1st Venetian Wine Bar in the U.S.) that Daniel first garned attention for his famed Bolognese and other of his tasty Italian Meat Ragus like; his
Duck Ragu, and Grandma’s Sunday Gravy …
Daniel says everyone shoudl know how to make a great Ragu, or at least Sugo di Pomodoro (Tomato Sauce to you and me).
Yes Daniel was hesitant to give up his famed Bolognese recipe, but if you want it, it’s in two of his very popular Italian Cookbooks; SEGRETO ITALIANO – Secret Italian Recipes, or his first book La TAVOLA which is a collection of Stories of Italian-American Food Kitchen & Table, with 30 Bellino Family Recipes at the back of the book. If you’ve never read any of Daniel’s cookbooks, and you love Italian Food & Culture, we suggest you get your hands on one or two of his books. Daniel’s recipes are incrediable, and his story telling abilities are delightful.
Article by James Wilke
BOOKS by Daniel Bellino Zwicke
SEGRETO ITALIANO
Secret Italian Recipes
Including Danny’s Bolognese
SUNDAY SAUCE
WHEN ITALIAN-AMERICANS COOK
La TAVOLA
Italian-American New Yorkers Adventures
of The Table
“And KITCHEN Too!”
by Daniel Bellino Zwicke
COOKING SICILIAN
Grandma Bellino’s Italian Cookbook
Recipes From My SICILIAN NONNA
by Daniel Bellino “Z”
.
.
NOT THE FINAL COVER...GRANDMA BELLINO’S ITALIAN COOKBOOKRecipes From My Sicilian Nonnaby Daniel BellinoTHIS Is NOT THE COVERJust a Mock-UpThe Actual Cover Will Be Quite DifferentAfter working on a book for some time, just seeing pages in a computer can be a bit much.Just wanted to see a cover of the book, and made this one myself. My designer will produce something much more attractive, as he has proven in the past. Well, just wanted to have a bit of fun and something to look at untile the true cover comes together.This my latest book Grandma Bellino’s Italian Cookbook – Recipes of My Sicilian Nonna is a collection of Sicilian & Sicilian-American Recipes. Most of the recipes are of my Nonna Josephina Salemi Bellino. Some of the recipes are from her offspring like my mother Lucia and her Brother Tony, along with recipes from my Aunts Fran and Helen and my sister Barbara.SAMPLES of BOOK COVERS From MY GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Meatball Parm Mondays
SUNDAY SAUCE
When Italian Americans Cook
Segreto Italiano
SEGRETO ITALIANO – SECRET ITALIAN RECIPES
The NEGRONI
Learn How to Make The Perfect NEGRONI … Read SUNDAY SAUCE by Daniel Bellino Zwicke
Caffe Dante to Close ???
MY BELOVED CAFFE DANTE to CLOSE
Yes I’m afraid it’s most likely true, my beloved Caffe Dante to close this month (February 2015) after 100 years in business in New York’s Greenwich Village. It’s rumored that Mario Flotta the long time owner of Caffe Dante will be selling the caffe to a Australian Corporation and it was reported on 1010 WINS Radio News this morning that Dante will be shuttering its doors in 10 days time. This is very sad, especially for me and longtime regulars who have been going to Caffe Dante for 10, 20, 30, and even 40 years for New York’s most authentic Espresso and cups of Cappuccino. I myself have been going there since the Summer of 1985 when I came back from my first trip wonderful trip of many to my ancestral homeland of Italy .. As i’ve been going to Caffe Dante almost evry single day siance 85, I’ve become good friends with the Flotta Family over the years especially Mario Sr. who is almost like a second father to me.
This is such sad news, and all I can say is something I know that most do not, is that Mario bought a building around the corner on Bleecker Street for just such a situation. That being that the landlord would one day raise his rent beyond reason (the Landlord did in 2013), and Mario would just pack up his caffe and move it around the corner. Mario is Caffe Dante, his loves the place like one of his own children, and I know this is the reason he bought the building on Bleedker. Mario told me himself what he would do, and he always wanted the Caffe to continue and for there to be a place for Caffe Dante for his sons, Mario Jr., Anthony, and Peter.
I hope everything all works out, I love Caffe Dante more than I can ever express, it’s without question my second home, and a Greenwich Village without this wonderful Caffe would be that much less of the Greenwich Village that we residients, visitors and tourist from around the country and around the World know.
Story & Photos by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke
NEGRONI
The NEGRONI COCKTAIL
ARTWORK by JAMES STARACE
The Negroni! A cocktail most Americans do not know. Too bad! With its contents of bitter Campari, Sweet Vermouth, and Gin, the Negroni is quite the unique cocktail. Best of all, it’s tasty and refreshing, with the essence of an Orange Peel, it’s invigorates and rejuvenates The Negroni is wonderful any time of the year, however, it is especially pleasing on a hot Summers day somewhere on the Coast in Italy, The South of France, or anywhere on the Mediterranean, or the Hamptons or South Beach for that matter.
So, not many people know of the Negroni and its charms, other than the more Sophisticated among our population. Even just a minute percentage of those who have traveled to its birthplace in Italy will even know of the cocktail. In this country, it is drunk more often in the city of New York. A city with a higher “Sophisticate” ratio than most, but even still, just a few will know of this drink, the Negroni Cock-tail.
So what it is it? Well its base is the highly popular aperitif of bitter Campari, a Bitter-Sweet aperitif from Torino, Italy. The Negroni is made of 1 0z. Campari, 1 oz. Sweet Vermouth, 3/4 oz. Gin, over ice cubes in a Rocks Glass with a splash of Club Soda on top and garnished with a slice of Orange or Orange peel. Voila!
The Negroni is usually drunk as an aperitif before dinner in the early evening, but just wonderful any-time of the afternoon, especially Alfresco, or late in-
to the evening day. A Negroni is a particularly splendid drink for a leisurely Afternoon Cocktail or two. As a matter of fact, I just had a couple nice after-noon Negroni’s at Cipriani Downtown just the other day.
The base of the Negroni Cocktail is the well known Italian Bitter Aperitif Campari created in Novaro, Italy near Milano in the 1860 by Gaspare Campari. The secret recipe that has been carefully guarded for more than 150 years consists of and in-fusion of alcohol, Herbs, and vegetables, including, Orange Peel, Chinotto, and other secret ingredients.
The Negroni Cocktail was created in 1919 at the Caffe Casoni in Florence, Italy when the Count Neg-roni, a regular customer of the caffe, asked his wait-er for a Americano that had a little more of a kick to it. The Barman and waiter obliged the Count with a cocktail made with the normal Campari, and Sweet Vermouth of the Americano but with the addition of London Dry Gin. The Count Loved the Cocktail which was named after him and thus the Negroniwas born.
A NEGRONI and Its INGREDIENTS
“Do You Remember Your First Time,” was the slogan of a wonderful Ad Campaign by Campari with pictures of good looking men or Gorgeous Women, and some sort of Campari Cocktail in hand, usually the most famous of Campari and Soda with a twist of Orange. The Ad was asking you if you remember the First Time you had your first Campari, but of course there was the Sexual connotation eluding to the first time you had Sex.
A ploy often used by marketers and ad agencies.
I remember “My First.” It was of course on my first trip to Italy in 1985 sitting outside at a Caffe on The Piazza Popolo in Rome. I had seen the ads and people drinking them outside and when my waiter came over, I ordered one. It took a little getting used to at first, but I loved it and have ever since, and I’ve turned many people on to the drink ever since. On a whole, just a small percentage of Americans have ev-er even tasted Campari at all, whether it’s a Campariand Soda, Campari & OJ, or my beloved Negroni.
So, if you’ve never had one, it’s time to get on the stick. We drink them like crazy at my buddy Pat Par-rotta’s house. Pat is an Italian Wine Lover, who throws great dinner parties, and he’s quite the dam good cook. We eat Pasta, Chicken, Steaks, Saus-ages, whatever, always with some nice Italian Wine.
Pat is a great host who knows how to throw a great dinner party. His dinners parties are always a huge success and we always start the day off with what has become a tradition at Pat and Gina’s home, a couple tasty Negroni’s or Campari Spritzers to get things rolling. I always look forward to having my Negroni when I get to Pat’s after riding the Ferry over from Manhattan.
As I’ve already stated, Pat is a wonderful Host who has great enthusiasm to cook for friends and family, serving some nice Italian Wine, along with
his celebrated Negroni’s which are better than just about any Bartender in New York. “For Real!”
Making a good Negroni, brings to mind, that it’s not that easy. Not everyone can do it, as you need to get the proper balance of these very prominent ingredients of Campari, Gin, and Sweet Vermouth. I can, and Pat can, but many a bartender does not, no matter what they may think. I’ve been extolling the Wonders and Virtues of Campari and the Neg-roni for well over 20 years, while just a few Ameri-can’s on a whole have yet to discover it. Even as now some big cocktail association has named the Negroni, “The Cocktail of The Year” for 2011. People are just now catching up. I could have told you 20 years ago. In fact, “I did.”
Anyway, back to Bartenders who don’t know how to make a proper Negroni. I was recently at a popular restaurant that has two bars inside where they make the new So-Called Artisanal Cocktails and House Specialty Drinks, made by “Mixologists.”
I ordered a Negroni. The Bartender made it and served it to me straight-up in a cocktail glass. I asked him to put it in a Rocks Glass with ice, whereby he gave me an almost disdainful look, as if he made a great drink the right way and who the Hell was I to have him alter it. “These Mixologist.” Well, first off, the drink was not great. It wasn’t even good. It was out of balance, and as I’ve said, in making a proper Negroni, it’s all about balance,
I know the balance, Pat knows the balance, that bartender did not. I’ve been drinking these things for more than 20 years, and I’m not going to have some bartender who’s just started making them a few months ago and who’s never been to Italy in his life tell me how it’s done. “Not gonna Happen!”
So my friends, if you’ve yet to imbibe in one.
Don’t you think it’s high-time? Just make sure to get a bartender who knows the ropes. I sugest Cipriani Downtown. Even better, the families flagship restaurant, Harry’s Bar, Venice, in Rome or on the Amalfi Coast.
“The NEGRONI” excerpted from Daniel Bellino Zwicke’s Book “LA TAVOLA”
In Paperback and kindle Edition
LEARN How to Make The Perfecr NEGRONI COCKTAIL …. Pat Parotta’s Recipe in SUNDAY SAUCE by Daniel Bellino “Z”
New Yorks Best Italian Restaurants
BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANT In NEW YORK
BAR PITTI Is The BEST
# 1
NEW YORK’S BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
1. Bar Pitti … Greenwich Village
.
2. Rao’s … East Harlem, New York, NY
.
3. PATSY’S … 56th Street, New York, NY
.
4. Manducati’s, … Long Island CIty, Queens
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5. DeGrezia Restorante … Midtown Manhattan
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6. Elio’s … Upper East Side Manhattan
“FRANKIE NO”
Frank Pellegrino Sr.
RAO’S # 2
*
*
ELIO’S MAKES THE BEST LASAGNA BOLOGNESE
Sunday & Monday Nights Only
Lasagna Bolognese
MANDUCATI’S
Long Island City, Queens New York
GREAT OLD SCHOOL ITALIAN
The BAR at MANDUCATIS
“La TAVOLA”
ITALIAN In GREENWICH VILLAGE
SUNDAY SAUCE
WHEN ITALIAN AMERICAN’S COOK
by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke
Learn How to Make Bolognese, Sunday Sauce,
Meatballs, and more …
On Brunello
BRUNELLO Di MONTALCINO
Vines of Brunello in Montalcino
Brunello di Montalcino is a robust Italian red wine grape produced in vineyards in and around the town of Montalcino, about 120 km south of Florence in Tuscany.
The word Brunello is derived from the Italian masculine form Bruno, which means “brown.”
BRUNELLO FACTS
1. The origins of Brunello di Montalcino can be traced back as far as the 14th century. A red wine praised by the nobles of Tuscany as the “best wine in Tuscany,” Brunello is considered the youngest of Italy’s prestigious wines.
2. Brunello is made from 100% Sangiovese Grapes, also know as Brunello .
3. Originally, in Montalcino, it was believed that Brunello was a single individual grape grown just in that region. Extensive study was done in 1879 by the Province of Siena’s Amphelographic Commission and concluded that it was in fact a particular clone of the Sangiovese grape.
In 1888, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi bottled and formally named the first Brunello di Montalcino. Biondi-Santi is also credited with isolating the superior Sangiovese clone found only in the Montalcino wine region.
4. By WW II, Brunello developed a reputation for being one of Italy’s rarest and most expensive wines. More producers wanted in on the action.
By 1960 there were 11 producers following Biondi-Santi’s success. Brunello evolved into a designation of wines made with 100% Sangiovese grapes. In 1968, Brunello di Montalcino is awarded DOC status.
BRUNELLO
aka SANGOVESE
ON THE VINE in MONTALCINO
5. By 1980, there are 53 Brunello di Montalcino producers and the wine was awarded the higher level DOCG status.
Today, there are 200 producers of Brunello di Montalcino in Italy and it remains one of Italy’s best known and most expensive wines.
Climate has the most influence on the deep characteristics of Brunello di Montalcino. Montalcino sits south of Florence and enjoys warmer, drier growing seasons than that of the other popular Tuscan Sangiovese region Chianti. It is the driest of all Tuscan DOCG zones.
Cool, south-west maritime breezes also help ventilate late afternoon warmth and bring cooler nights. Sunshine on the northern and southern facing slopes are used to full advantage creating earlier or later ripening as desired.
The particular isolated superior Sangiovese clone unique to Montalcino region imparts distinct characteristics in Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas include blackberry, black cherry, black raspberry, leather, chocolate and violets. Perhaps fleshier in taste than Chianti.
Brunello di Montalcino producers divide their production into two categories: normale or riserva. By DOCG law, Brunello di Montalcino must be aged longer than the majority of Italian wines.
Normale requires 4 years, two of which must be in oak. Five years of aging are required for riserva Brunello di Montalcino, 2.5 years of which must be in oak.
The kinds of oak varies. Traditionalists will use the large old Slovanian oak casks that don’t impart significant character to the wine.
Modern producers will use smaller French barriques that give more structure and vanilla, but require some management of overwhelming characteristics of oak and vanilla by the winemaker.
Fun fact: 1 out of 3 bottles of wine sold in the United States is Brunello di Montalcino, mostly in restaurants.
Brunello di Montalcino food pairing with grilled meats and game.
My Favorite BRUNELLO
Fattoria di Barbi
AnothER FAVORITE BRUNELLO
Me & Conti Francesco Cinzano
at DeGrezia, New York
Francesco Tasted Me on All His Current Vintage Wines
Including Rosso di Montalcino
His Awesome RISERVE BRUENLLO Con VENTO
and
MOSCADELLO di MONTALCINO
COL D’ORCIA BRUNELLO Di MONTALCINO
Me & My Buddy
MARCHESE FERDINANDO FRESCOBALDI
with Author ITALIAN NEW YORK WINE GUY Daniel Bellino Zwicke
in
NEW YORK
WHEN ITALIAN-AMERICANS COOK
SUNDAY SAUCE
by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke
EMILIO BALLTO is OLD SCHOOL ITALIAN
LENNY KRAVITZ
wtih
Emilio Vitolo
at
EMILIO’S BALLATO
OLD SCHOOL ITALIAN RED SAUCE JOINT
EMILIO’S BALLATO
“Wonderfully Delicious” !!!
Dining Room EMELIO BALLATO RESTORANT
East Houston Street, Nohlita NEW YORK
An ITALIAN-AMERICAN CLASSIC
SPAGHETTI & MEATBALLS
at
BALLATO’S
BAKED CLAMS OREGANATA
at
BALLATO’S
Another ITALIAN AMERICAN CLASSIC DISH
Wonderful old-school type Red Sauce Italian Joint of days gone by. Not as old as John’s (Since 1908) or Lanza, but definately of the old-school Italian type with dishes like Baked Clams Oreganta, Chicken Parmigiano, Spaghetti & Meatballs and more. A wonderful ambiance and great spirit of a restaurant. Check it out, Ballato’s is the real deal!
Quote From BALLATO Regular LENNY KRAVITZ :
Wonderful old-school type Red Sauce Italian Joint of days gone by. Not as old as John’s (Since 1908) or Lanza, but definately of the old-school Italian type with dishes like Baked Clams Oreganta, Chicken Parmigiano, Spaghetti & Meatballs and more. A wonderful ambiance and great spirit of a restaurant.
Check it out, Ballato’s is the real deal!
Below: The MOST UNUSUAL RESTAURANT TIP (Gratuiety) EVER !!!
An AWNING From LENNY KRAVITZ
The AWNING in QUESTION ?
Note: Famed New York DIVE BAR “MILANOS”
Next Door to BALLATO’S
on East Houston Street, NEW YORK
FAVORITE DISHES at EMELIO’S BALLATO
BAKED CLAMS OREGANATA
SPAGHETTI POMODORO
CHICKEN PARMIGIANO
OSSOBUCO
RIGATONI AMATRICIANA
VEAL MILANESE
SPAGHETTI & MEATBALLS
SUNDAY SAUCE
WHEN ITALIAN-AMERICANS COOK
by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke
Frankie No Says No Table at RAOS
FRANKIE NO Says “NO” !!!
FRANK PELLIGRINO Sr.
RAO’S OWNER
RAO’S the historic Spanish Harlem restaurant is as elusive and alluring as ever. It’s still nearly impossible to secure a seat without serious connections — but Grub tracked down thirteen people who revealed their strategies for getting in and dished on their best nights (though a few of them were so concerned about revealing their secrets that they didn’t want us to use their names).
Strategy 1: Don’t Take No for an Answer
“I had a business partner who was this fastidious attorney who would never take no for an answer. In 1995, someone who works for us wanted to go there for dinner. My business partner called [co-owner] Frank [Pellegrino] 500 times. Finally he said, ‘Oh my God, come in. I can’t take it anymore.’ My partner wore him down. That first time, we became friends with everyone there. Frankie Jr. bonded with me, for some reason, and we became good friends. I was very active in the restaurant business for a long time, and I think that helped as well.
“I had a business partner who was this fastidious attorney who would never take no for an answer. In 1995, someone who works for us wanted to go there for dinner. My business partner called [co-owner] Frank [Pellegrino] 500 times. Finally he said, ‘Oh my God, come in. I can’t take it anymore.’ My partner wore him down. That first time, we became friends with everyone there. Frankie Jr. bonded with me, for some reason, and we became good friends. I was very active in the restaurant business for a long time, and I think that helped as well.
I don’t have a standing table. I think in the seventeen years I’ve been going, I’ve only had legit reservations three or four times. Every other time, I just go on a Monday night, sit at the bar, and hope to get seated. I text one of the main guys to let them know and ask them to seat me. I brought my wife there on our first date fourteen years ago. She was definitely impressed.
I once had a great encounter with Johnny ‘Roastbeef’ [a character actor best known for his small role in Goodfellas]. We were at the bar, and, all of a sudden, the theme from Cats comes on. Johnny put his glass down hard, and he said, ‘Every time I hear this song, all I want to do is eat pussy.’ Without missing a beat, the woman next to him, who was in her sixties, asked, ‘Does anyone know where I can get the CD really quickly?’ I started laughing, and the bartender said that I couldn’t laugh. We didn’t know if it was a joke. I’ve seen amazing things there. A guy who had just gotten out of the slammer after twenty years showed up to celebrate, wearing clothes from twenty years ago: a skintight black sleeveless shirt and tight jeans.” —Anonymous
Strategy 2: Be Eddie Huang
“I went the first time with Zach Chodorow with his girl and some other girl. Zach has friends that have a standing table. In the winter, they go away, and I hit him up. It was cool. We had a good time. They definitely have the best meatballs in the city. You go for the environment. You walk in, you walk out, and there’s no better entrance to a restaurant. I take a Town Car, whatever. You walk into a movie.
“I went the first time with Zach Chodorow with his girl and some other girl. Zach has friends that have a standing table. In the winter, they go away, and I hit him up. It was cool. We had a good time. They definitely have the best meatballs in the city. You go for the environment. You walk in, you walk out, and there’s no better entrance to a restaurant. I take a Town Car, whatever. You walk into a movie.
The second time, it was my girl’s birthday, and it was right after Hurricane Sandy. She’s an Italian girl who lived in Harlem and had never gone, so I said, ‘I gotta take you.’ We went on November 4. I talked to Nicky the Vest at the bar, and he said he recognized me. I was like, ‘You don’t get many Chinese people in here?’ He said, ‘Why don’t I get you a table?’ Then Frank comes over and said, ‘Welcome back. If I have a table available, do you want to sit down and have dinner?’ Absolutely! We had dinner. It was the best birthday she ever had. You wish more people with that passion and that character were opening restaurants in New York.
But if you just want to just try the food, go to Vegas. That’s where my first Rao’s experience was, and I actually like Uncle Vincent’s chicken and the on-the-bone veal Parmesan better there. You can just walk into the Vegas location: It’s a twenty-minute wait, tops. You know how people say things just based on what sounds good? The fact of the matter is that the food is better in Vegas. But the Rao’s in Harlem is a New York institution. The moment you see it, you know why. It’s got that swag.” —Eddie Huang, Baohaus chef and soon-to-be television star
Strategy 3: Shower the Pellegrino Family With Gifts
“I used to work for an Academy Award–winning actor. It opened up a lot of doors in New York, but it never got me a table at Rao’s … until the actor’s executive assistant tracked down a member of the Pellegrino family and showered her with gifts: flowers, spa gift cards, and movie-premiere invitations. That’s how I scored my first reservation. I took my best friend, who’d also been trying (and failing) to get a table for many years. We feasted like kings. After dessert, the bartender asked us if we wanted a final drink ‘with Frank.’ Of course we said yes to this. The drink was served, but we didn’t touch it. We wanted to wait for Frank to join us, but an hour later, he still hadn’t come by our table. Eventually, the other tables emptied out. Rao’s was closing, and we realized that the drink wason Frank, not with him. Embarrassed, we quickly paid and departed.
“I used to work for an Academy Award–winning actor. It opened up a lot of doors in New York, but it never got me a table at Rao’s … until the actor’s executive assistant tracked down a member of the Pellegrino family and showered her with gifts: flowers, spa gift cards, and movie-premiere invitations. That’s how I scored my first reservation. I took my best friend, who’d also been trying (and failing) to get a table for many years. We feasted like kings. After dessert, the bartender asked us if we wanted a final drink ‘with Frank.’ Of course we said yes to this. The drink was served, but we didn’t touch it. We wanted to wait for Frank to join us, but an hour later, he still hadn’t come by our table. Eventually, the other tables emptied out. Rao’s was closing, and we realized that the drink wason Frank, not with him. Embarrassed, we quickly paid and departed.
More recently, I was able to get another reservation. A woman I knew was friends with Johnny ‘Roastbeef.’ Turns out knowing Mr. Roastbeef is a much better connection than any award-winning movie star because we landed the best table and had multiple drinks with Frank.” —Anonymous
Strategy 4: Be a Professional Baseball Player, Befriend Frankie
“I came to New York as a player in ’72, and it was either ’72 or ’73 that I went to Rao’s for the first time. I don’t even remember who brought me, to be truthful. It was fun. Everyone realizes that it’s a special place more now than ever because it is so hard to get a table in the damn place. I’ve been friends with Frankie a long time. His original name was ‘Frankie No’ because he ran the reservation book. No matter what you said, he said, ‘No!’ The old joke is that they only take reservations in November, and then they say they’re booked for the year. It’s the toughest reservation in all of New York City, even with those small Brooklyn restaurants with sixteen seats.
I get a chance to go maybe six or seven times a year. I live in West Palm Beach, and I come up and I work. I have two foundations that I started in New York City, and I sometimes get permission to auction a dinner here or there for charity, so sometimes people pay money to have dinner with me at Rao’s.” — Rusty Staub, former Major League Baseball player
L to R : VEAL & PEPPERS, SEAFOOD SALAD, RAO’S Famous LEMON CHICKEN
Strategy 5: Better Yet, Be a Baseball Player’s Friend
“I started going about five or so years ago as a guest of good friend Rusty Staub, the former New York Mets baseball player, who had been going regularly (once a month or so) since the seventies. In the last year or so, I’ve been lucky enough to be offered a table, here or there, by Frankie or his cousin Susan Paolercio, who handles the much-coveted reservation book. I have a great relationship with them: They’ll call me and tell me when they have tables.
One of the best dishes isn’t even on the menu: fried chicken. You can win a lot of bets by saying it’s the best fried chicken in the city — it’s unbelievable.
The most memorable night … was my second or third time going, and I was with Rusty Staub, who played for the Expos in Montreal. We were minding our business, and across the way there was Celine Dion and her husband, with Tommy Mottola. Out of the blue, Celine got up, came over to the table, and started singing the Canadian national anthem. I went, ‘What the hell?’ She grew up watching Rusty play.” —Herb Karlitz, president of Karlitz & Company
Strategy 6: Go On a Monday
“The Rao’s people are dear friends of mine, but I don’t have a standing, once-a-month table. They usually gave me tables on Mondays. I’ve been there three or four times. When I eat there, I get the same table for two that’s close to the kitchen door. There was that murder a couple of years back, and that’s right by my table. The bullet hit the kitchen door, and for some time, the floor had stains on it. People go to racing-car events looking for accidents and hockey games looking for fights, but the dark side is that people want to see that when they go to Rao’s.
“The Rao’s people are dear friends of mine, but I don’t have a standing, once-a-month table. They usually gave me tables on Mondays. I’ve been there three or four times. When I eat there, I get the same table for two that’s close to the kitchen door. There was that murder a couple of years back, and that’s right by my table. The bullet hit the kitchen door, and for some time, the floor had stains on it. People go to racing-car events looking for accidents and hockey games looking for fights, but the dark side is that people want to see that when they go to Rao’s.
For me, what’s special about it is the closeness of everyone who works there. I see the same people, and I table-hop and say hello to people. Jeremy Shockey and Michael Strahan and I all sat down together there. Back then, they all worked for the Giants. That was a great time for me. The special nights are when Frankie gets up and sings. Cast members of Les Miz used to get up and sing, too, and that was always great. You have to finish the meal with the cheesecake. The woman who used to make it passed away, and it’s still very good, but not as good as it used to be.” —
Strategy 7: Get to Know the Family
“I started going a few years ago. Nicholas Caiazzio, a cousin of Frank Pellegrino, is a friend of mine. He has a couple of standing tables that I get offered. It’s always a show! One night we were up there, and it happened to be my birthday. Frank Pellegrino sang ‘Happy Birthday,’ and that was pretty cool. He’s the ultimate restauranteur. He lives up to everything that Rao’s is going to be. I grew up way downtown in Brooklyn, and it reminds me of that. Old guys outside smoking cigars. I like the fact that they haven’t ever changed over the years.” —Ralph Scamardella, corporate-executive chef/partner of the TAO Group
Strategy 8: Know Someone Who Knows Someone
“I ate at Rao’s in June of 1996 while I was a line cook at Bouley. I dined with chef Kurt Guttenbrunner (currently chef-owner of Wallsé), who was then a sous-chef. Through a regular Bouley customer, he was invited and brought me as a guest. I felt privileged for sure, and I remember eating some pretty tasty veal Parmesan. We had to get a car service at the door. It felt like I was in a movie.” —George Mendes, chef-owner of Aldea
“I ate at Rao’s in June of 1996 while I was a line cook at Bouley. I dined with chef Kurt Guttenbrunner (currently chef-owner of Wallsé), who was then a sous-chef. Through a regular Bouley customer, he was invited and brought me as a guest. I felt privileged for sure, and I remember eating some pretty tasty veal Parmesan. We had to get a car service at the door. It felt like I was in a movie.” —George Mendes, chef-owner of Aldea
Strategy 9: Find a Generous Regular
“I was a guest of [sportswriter] Dick Schaap, who had a table every Monday night. As he put it, it was his favorite possession. In fact, he wrote in his memoir about how pleased he was that I had taken his picture, and that I could have his Rao’s table anytime, which was very nice. He took me a number of times starting in 1988 — or sometime around there. I was lucky enough to be a guest of his many times.
“I was a guest of [sportswriter] Dick Schaap, who had a table every Monday night. As he put it, it was his favorite possession. In fact, he wrote in his memoir about how pleased he was that I had taken his picture, and that I could have his Rao’s table anytime, which was very nice. He took me a number of times starting in 1988 — or sometime around there. I was lucky enough to be a guest of his many times.
In the early nineties, you could ask to get a table. Sometimes it’d take a month or so, but they’d usually give you a reservation. At the end of the evening with Dick, I’d ask if I could a table and take my sons. I began getting a table once every six or eight weeks. It was even possible to pull up in a taxi and walk in and ask, but there came a point where they literally filled the place with regulars.
The novelty of Rao’s wore off years ago, but I still go because the people make it so pleasant. I consider Frankie Jr. a good friend. The only reason my gallery at Caesar’s Palace existed is because he introduced me to the people at Caesar’s. He was basically my agent. Rao’s is a club you belong to — some people go to the Harvard Club or the Yale Club or whatever. I go to Rao’s.” —Neil Leifer, famed photographer and filmmaker
Strategy 10: Get Invited to a Private Party
“The only time I’ve ever been was for a press party that Bon Appétitorganized after Adam Rapoport took over. I don’t know how they did it, but they managed to secure the entire restaurant. Lots of food writers and bloggers were there, and the main point of the night was to promote the magazine, so it didn’t feel at all like a ‘real’ night at Rao’s. Still, Frankie was there, we got to be in that space, and they served a ton of food. What I mostly remember is that the Bon App eds were very gracious about letting people hitch rides home in their Condé-provided Town Cars at the end of the night, so maybe the place really does have some magical vibe that makes everyone more jovial. —Grub Street’s own Alan Sytsma
“The only time I’ve ever been was for a press party that Bon Appétitorganized after Adam Rapoport took over. I don’t know how they did it, but they managed to secure the entire restaurant. Lots of food writers and bloggers were there, and the main point of the night was to promote the magazine, so it didn’t feel at all like a ‘real’ night at Rao’s. Still, Frankie was there, we got to be in that space, and they served a ton of food. What I mostly remember is that the Bon App eds were very gracious about letting people hitch rides home in their Condé-provided Town Cars at the end of the night, so maybe the place really does have some magical vibe that makes everyone more jovial. —Grub Street’s own Alan Sytsma
THE FEAST of THE 7 FISH
Strategy 11: Have Vague “Connections”
“I’ve got some ‘connections.’ Let’s leave it at that. The food is mediocre. Can we not name my name? I hate to insult them, but I cook better. I think you really have to know someone, either a celeb or someone of influence like a politician or a police chief.” —Anonymous
“I’ve got some ‘connections.’ Let’s leave it at that. The food is mediocre. Can we not name my name? I hate to insult them, but I cook better. I think you really have to know someone, either a celeb or someone of influence like a politician or a police chief.” —Anonymous
Strategy 12: Know a Mob Lawyer
“Someone I knew was about to get indicted because of a huge gambling scandal, and I wanted to introduce him to a well-known defense attorney. The attorney, who’s represented a bunch of organized criminals, was able to secure the table for us. It’s the only time I’ve been. The whole experience is a little surreal. You have a shitty sauce-and-cheese place, and people trying to act like they’re the shit. It’s not the best food ever, but it was definitely good. I did see Bobby Baccalieri from The Sopranos and detective Bo Dietl there that night, too.” —Anonymous
“Someone I knew was about to get indicted because of a huge gambling scandal, and I wanted to introduce him to a well-known defense attorney. The attorney, who’s represented a bunch of organized criminals, was able to secure the table for us. It’s the only time I’ve been. The whole experience is a little surreal. You have a shitty sauce-and-cheese place, and people trying to act like they’re the shit. It’s not the best food ever, but it was definitely good. I did see Bobby Baccalieri from The Sopranos and detective Bo Dietl there that night, too.” —Anonymous
Strategy 13: Schmooze With Wall Street Types and/or Gangsters
“‘I’ve dined there at least five times, and I ate once with the gangsters, once with the Wall Streeters, and once with Hollywood folks. I once sat with some movie producers and Ben Gazzara — what a Hollywood legend! My first book was all about the mob, and my second is all about Wall Street, so I was never the one who made the reservation when I started going years ago in the nineties. It was always someone else who had connections — knew the mob or whatever. You have to know someone. It’s more than a meal; it’s magic.
“‘I’ve dined there at least five times, and I ate once with the gangsters, once with the Wall Streeters, and once with Hollywood folks. I once sat with some movie producers and Ben Gazzara — what a Hollywood legend! My first book was all about the mob, and my second is all about Wall Street, so I was never the one who made the reservation when I started going years ago in the nineties. It was always someone else who had connections — knew the mob or whatever. You have to know someone. It’s more than a meal; it’s magic.
What Wine For The ITALIAN CHRISTMAS FEAST of THE 7 FISH
“SO? WHAT WINE For THE FEAST of THE 7 FISH” ???
What
wine for the Feast of 7 Fish? A good question. Well for one thing, your
favorite wine that you like best will always do. But if you are looking for
suggestions and what are so-called expert pairings, then you would most likely
want some good white wine, and some Italian white at that. My own number one
personal favorite would be a nice Greco di Tufo from Campania, the region of
Italy where the Festa di Sette Pesci is in its greatest realm. The Italian
Christmas Feast is quite a big thing in Sicily and other parts of the South of
Italy. But when it comes to great wines of Southern Italy, no region can beat
Campania with wines like; Fiano di Avelino, Falanghina, Lacryma Christi Bianco,
and Greco.
wine for the Feast of 7 Fish? A good question. Well for one thing, your
favorite wine that you like best will always do. But if you are looking for
suggestions and what are so-called expert pairings, then you would most likely
want some good white wine, and some Italian white at that. My own number one
personal favorite would be a nice Greco di Tufo from Campania, the region of
Italy where the Festa di Sette Pesci is in its greatest realm. The Italian
Christmas Feast is quite a big thing in Sicily and other parts of the South of
Italy. But when it comes to great wines of Southern Italy, no region can beat
Campania with wines like; Fiano di Avelino, Falanghina, Lacryma Christi Bianco,
and Greco.
So Greco di Tufo for your Feast of Seven
Fish? Greco di Tufo has good acidity which makesit a clean/crisp wine that’s
just perfect for fish. The wine usually exhibits Lemon Citrus flavors along
with good hints of pear fruit for a nice flavor profile. So, I for one love to
serve Greco with my Feast of The 7 Fish meal as it goes so perfectly with all
fish and shellfish and that is from Campania, the capital region of this wonderful
feast of seven fishes, and a place of charming beauty.
Fish? Greco di Tufo has good acidity which makesit a clean/crisp wine that’s
just perfect for fish. The wine usually exhibits Lemon Citrus flavors along
with good hints of pear fruit for a nice flavor profile. So, I for one love to
serve Greco with my Feast of The 7 Fish meal as it goes so perfectly with all
fish and shellfish and that is from Campania, the capital region of this wonderful
feast of seven fishes, and a place of charming beauty.
Another great wine from Campania to contemplate
for your meal is Lacryma Christi. Now considering the religious aspects of The
Feast of The 7 Fish, Lacryma Christ is a wine that has very special meaning, as
the wine is intertwined with Biblical History. According to legend, God cried
when he found a corner of Heaven stolen by Lucifer, and where his tears fell,
there grew the grapes that make Lacryma Christi, which translates to “The Tears
of Christ.” Lacryma Christi Bianco is made mostly of Coda di Volpe grapes. It’s
also a nice clean crispy white that usually shows flavors of White Peaches and
Pineapples. Consider its taste and historical significance, Lacryma Christ
makes a perfect wine for the Festa di Sette Pesci. Also not, that there is also
Lacryma Christi Rosso (red wine), made from Piedirosso grapes that makes a
wonderful wine for this feast if you want to drink some red.
for your meal is Lacryma Christi. Now considering the religious aspects of The
Feast of The 7 Fish, Lacryma Christ is a wine that has very special meaning, as
the wine is intertwined with Biblical History. According to legend, God cried
when he found a corner of Heaven stolen by Lucifer, and where his tears fell,
there grew the grapes that make Lacryma Christi, which translates to “The Tears
of Christ.” Lacryma Christi Bianco is made mostly of Coda di Volpe grapes. It’s
also a nice clean crispy white that usually shows flavors of White Peaches and
Pineapples. Consider its taste and historical significance, Lacryma Christ
makes a perfect wine for the Festa di Sette Pesci. Also not, that there is also
Lacryma Christi Rosso (red wine), made from Piedirosso grapes that makes a
wonderful wine for this feast if you want to drink some red.
You may also want to consider a wine from
Friuli, as this region is Italy’s # 1 region for great white wines, as well as
in my opinion the greatest single white wine region in all the world. Yes, it
is. They make wonderful whites like; Sauvignon Blanc, Friuliano (formely known
as Toacai), Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Riballa Gialla, and more. Great
Friulian wine producers to look for are; Jermann, Venica, Colterenzio,
Teifenbrunner, Marco Felluga, Livio Felluga, Zamo, and Villa Russiz.
Friuli, as this region is Italy’s # 1 region for great white wines, as well as
in my opinion the greatest single white wine region in all the world. Yes, it
is. They make wonderful whites like; Sauvignon Blanc, Friuliano (formely known
as Toacai), Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Riballa Gialla, and more. Great
Friulian wine producers to look for are; Jermann, Venica, Colterenzio,
Teifenbrunner, Marco Felluga, Livio Felluga, Zamo, and Villa Russiz.
I particularly love all the wines from my
friends Gianni and Gianpaulo Venica, especially their Friuliano (Tocai) and
their great Sauvignon “Ronco d’ Mele.”
friends Gianni and Gianpaulo Venica, especially their Friuliano (Tocai) and
their great Sauvignon “Ronco d’ Mele.”
As I’ve said, the wines from Friuli are
some of the best in the world, but considering that when making a really fine
meal you usually want to pair wine from the same region the food comes from. So
considering that Campania and the south of Italy is where the Festa di Sett
Pesci is most prevelant and at it greatest heights, you
some of the best in the world, but considering that when making a really fine
meal you usually want to pair wine from the same region the food comes from. So
considering that Campania and the south of Italy is where the Festa di Sett
Pesci is most prevelant and at it greatest heights, you
want
a wine from the south for your Feast of The 7 Fish, and Campanian white wines
are without question the best way to go.
a wine from the south for your Feast of The 7 Fish, and Campanian white wines
are without question the best way to go.
If you want some red wine for your Feast,
of course Italian reds are the natural bet. I suggest you do not get anything
to big or of heavy weight. Get a nice lighter red like; Chianti, Barbera, or
one of the lighter Etna Rosso wines. I particularly love Chianti from my good
friend Luigi Cappellini of Castel Verrazzano in Greve. Yes it’s not from
Campania, but I just love Chianti, especially Luigi’s. Though, often with this
Christmas meal, I love drinking Lacryma Christi Rosso from either
Mastroberadino or Feudi San Gregorio. Both of these wine producers make
wonderful wines, and you can get; Greco, Falanghina, Fiano, Lacryma Christ
Bianco or Rosso from either of these winemakers and you’d be doing very well.
Basta.
of course Italian reds are the natural bet. I suggest you do not get anything
to big or of heavy weight. Get a nice lighter red like; Chianti, Barbera, or
one of the lighter Etna Rosso wines. I particularly love Chianti from my good
friend Luigi Cappellini of Castel Verrazzano in Greve. Yes it’s not from
Campania, but I just love Chianti, especially Luigi’s. Though, often with this
Christmas meal, I love drinking Lacryma Christi Rosso from either
Mastroberadino or Feudi San Gregorio. Both of these wine producers make
wonderful wines, and you can get; Greco, Falanghina, Fiano, Lacryma Christ
Bianco or Rosso from either of these winemakers and you’d be doing very well.
Basta.
LEARN HOW To MAKE THE FEAST of THE 7 FISH
THE FEAST of THE 7 FISH
by Daniel Bellino-Zwicke
The DEFINING BOOK of THE GENRE
